9/22/16
Today was our grand adventure on Rangitoto Island! We got a relatively early
start to the day in order to make the 9:15am ferry and decided to skip the
formal sit down restaurant for breakfast. Instead we decided to check out the
small pastry shop built into the hotel, which turned out to be a much better
proposition. They had a great breakfast sandwich that we enjoyed the following
day too!
The walk down to the ferry was just shy of a mile and all downhill, so it was
not a big deal. We made it with plenty of time to get a ticket and enjoy the
cool, fresh sea air for a bit. Riding over on the ferry really was a wonderful
site with the breeze blowing past us; a great way to start the morning!
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Good morning Rangitoto! We'll be seeing you soon! |
Rangitoto Island is the most recent addition to the Auckland area viewshed and
its most predominant feature too. It formed when the volcano erupted roughly
600 years ago and sprang up from the water just west of Motutapu Island. Human
and dog prints preserved in the ash from the Rangitoto eruption found on
Motutapu indicate that the Maori were living on the island at the time of the
eruption – What an intense experience that must have been to witness! One day
nothing but sea between them and mainland New Zealand and the next day a big
island pops out of the sea right in front of you! Crazy.
Once we landed, we decided to take a side trail into a Kowhai grove to let
everyone else get ahead of us and avoid seeing too many people. It was a much
smaller trail and before long it felt like we were the only ones on the island.
Kowhai is a tree native to the island that blooms with a pretty yellow flower
in the spring and summer. Our trip is at the end of winter/beginning of spring
here so there were not very many flowers in bloom. But there were a few, so I
felt lucky to see at least a couple. I imagine it will be quite a site in
another two or three weeks.
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The Kowhai Flower. |
The little side trail spit us out just a little bit past the start of the main
trail to the summit and we began our ascent to the top of the volcano! It was
not too difficult of a hike but we took our time during the first part –
although I imagine that Tyler may not have been taking his time as much as I
was. I recently finished reading A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson, who had
often described walking on the Appalachian Trail for hours until he found a
nice spot to sit and wait for his friend to catch up and enjoy the view. Those
parts in the book became a little more real to me on this hike. I didn’t mind
at all though, it gave me an excuse to stop and take in the views that I rarely
take advantage of on my own. And the company is always nice too.
But I also wanted to take a side trip to Boulder Bay, where New Zealand took a
lot of their old ships to die, and that was not going to happen if I continued
at that pace. So when we got to the turn to check out the lava tubes, I parted
ways with Tyler and we agreed to meet back at the wharf just before the last
ferry left the island at 3:30pm.
I made my way ahead to check out the lava tubes; a fun little side trip, but
there were only really 4 of them and none went any serious distance. Plus, I
had other places to go and not a lot of time to do it, so after a good 20
minutes exploring a couple of them, I was off to Shipwreck Bay . . . I mean
Boulder Bay.
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Still, the Lava Tubes were worth the side trip. |
If the suggested times were accurate, it was going to be tight and there would
be a small chance that I wouldn’t get there before I had to turn around to make
the last ferry. But when I put my mind to it, I can make my way through trails
pretty fast and I had a feeling that I might be able to make it happen. When I
made it through the first part in 10 minutes when the map said 35 minutes, I
felt a lot better about being able to make the trip in time before I had to
leave.
Sure enough, I made it to the bay with plenty of time to briefly look around
and take it all in. The waves from the ocean are incredibly loud and you would
expect to hear them a lot sooner than you do, so when I first heard the faint
sound of the beach I figured I still had another 5 or 10 minutes to go. But it
grew louder a lot quicker than I expected and by the time I turned around the
bend in the trail I could see the water. It is kind of crazy the dampening effect
the trees have on the sound that goes through them. That was one thing I
noticed on the island – just how quiet and still everything seemed to be. It
was very peaceful.
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Boulder Bay - Where ships go to die! |
Boulder Bay was another great view, but not much of the ships could still be
seen – at least where I was. Apparently the most intact ones were a short hike
further north, but I didn’t have time to make that trek if I wanted to make it
to the top of the volcano too. So I just looked around a bit, enjoyed the sea
breeze and then made my way back toward the top
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A lone piece of metal lets me know that I am in the right place. |
By then I was starting to feel the aching from the hike. I have not been able
to do much hiking (work or fun) for a while now so I was not in great shape. I
was definitely going to feel this in the morning, but the views were worth
every step. The top of the volcano did not disappoint! I stayed up there long
enough to eat a snack and enjoy the view, as well as help a couple people with
their photos. Then I was on my way back down to catch the ferry.
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The photo does not do the view from the top any justice. |
Tyler ended up checking out the lava tubes and making it to the top too, so he
was feeling the effects of the hike as well. We had also planned on checking
out a WWI and WWII defense over in Devonport on the way back. I was certainly
feeling the Rangitoto hike by now and would have been completely alright if we
had not gone to Devonport too, but I didn’t want to make that suggestion. So I
left it up to Tyler, thinking that he would have had his fill of adventure for
the day. Imagine my shock when he said, ‘What the heck, we are only here once!’
Way to go Tyler!
And with that, we were off to Devonport. I certainly am glad that Tyler made
the decision to check it out, because they were really impressive. I guess the
local newpaper decided it would be funny to report a spoof article about a
Russian ship attacking Auckland in the late 19
th century that got a
lot of people up in arms about New Zealand’s lack of defense. Despite the fact
that the article was a farce (apparently, the name of the Russian ship in the
article was Kaskowiski – Cask-of-Whisky), there was legitimate concern with current
Russian expansion in the area, so they started a project to build up their
defenses on North Head that expanded during WWI and again during WWII.
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Battery Observation Post built in 1889 - one of the oldest structures still remaining. |
After the wars, it was used for training by the New Zealand Navy for several
years before it was turned into a park open to the public – that is pretty
cool! Anyone with the gumption to get outside can go soak in the history and
beauty of the area at no charge. Great job New Zealand!
Well, by then our feet were certainly not happy with us with the full day of
walking so we limped back into town to find a restaurant to get some dinner and
have a couple of pints with the hopes of dulling the aches a bit. A quick ferry
ride back to Auckland and we were ready to walk the mile back to the hotel
uphill . . . yeah right! We totally took a cab.